Winter cap

1894-95 winter cap...handmade.

1894-95 winter cap…handmade.  Costume Museum of Canada collection.

Winter in my neck of the woods is, in a word, brutal.  This little cap may have been worn indoors or on less frigid days for quick trots out to the back yard.  It is hand-made and more utilitarian than fancy so I’m guessing it wasn’t used by a lady use to the finer things in life.  It also seems more “old-fashioned” than the date implies so may be worn by an older woman.

Left side view

Left side view

Back view.

Back view.

Right side view.

Right side view.

Top view

Top view

As a lover of knitting, I attempted to figure out how it was made.  I have thought I’d made one or two more “common folk” wear outfits and this would do nicely as an accessory.  The ties and edge trim was easy to figure out.

Hairpin lace technique.

Hairpin lace technique.

It has been awhile since I took these photos and my cell phone takes crappy pictures, but I think it is 3 strips of hairpin lace.  The red line is an outside edge of one strip.  Red wool has been worked into it to finish of the edge.  The next line is the inner stitches of hairpin lace.  Here is a good description of a basic hairpin lace stitch.

The next wavy line is the edges of the first strip joined with a second strip of lace A strand of matching wool snakes over top of the join.  Unfortunately, I can’t quite make out how the join was made.  I have a few ideas how I could mimic but I’d have to trial and error that one.

The process is repeated with a third strip of lace and an edging of red is added to that out edge.

For the back edge, it looks like the same process is done but the three strips of lace are joined as above and then folded in half lengthwise, gathered and then attached to the “body” of the cap.

Now the body of the cap is the real tricky part.

1894-5 CMC h

It is possible that this is a knit stitch similar to this one. But I really think it is actually a weave.

I also had the sense that it was two woven pieces together (for extra warmth).  It was really hard to tell without really yanking on these old fibers!

So someday I would like to give this a try.

 

How I made my hat

Disclaimer: I*have only vague ideas about how a hat may have been made so don’t take this tutorial as the gospel on millinery techniques. *

I wanted the general shape of this hat.CI60.23.23_S

I know many hats were made with a wire frame for a foundation.  I could not find my floral wire anywhere (which is what I’ve used on other hats) so I used the next best thing I could find-wire hangers.  I cut, bent and taped (with electrical tape-sue me-I have an electrician in the house) until I ended up with this frame. The bottom was formed to my head.  The top was the same shape but a bit smaller. The sides were just cut bars of similar lengths.  If I were to do it again, I’d make the bottom wider and I’d make the side bars shorter.

SAM_1999

 

Yeah, I know that tape is ugly but it is only temporary.

Guess what? Wire cutters and fingers don’t mix well. SAM_0006

Nice little blood blister there.  It reminds me of the tall tale my dad used to tell me.  He told me that blood blisters came from mosquitoes who bite you after biting a moose.  The mosquitoes inject the moose blood into you.  Thanks for that visual Dad!

Once I had the frame built, I traced the top and two sides onto the buckram and I cut two for each section.  If I were to do it again, I’d cut of piece of each pair about a 1/4 inch smaller on all of the seam edges.  You will see why later on.

SAM_2000Then I traced the buckram pieces on some flannel…one for each buckram piece.SAM_2001

That is a bit hard to see with the white on white.  Also, because my frame is not perfectly symmetrical, I labelled the front, right, left, inside and outside on all the pieces I cut out.  I feared that if I’d mix them up, they wouldn’t end up fitting each other or the frame.

The next step was cutting out a single lining piece for the top, left and right sides.

SAM_2002I made it much bigger than the buckram so I could wrap it.  Then I cut one piece of the fashion fabric for the top, right and left sides (also made bigger for over lapping.)SAM_2003

The grey underneath is the fashion fabric.  As you can see, it doesn’t need to be pretty or exact.

The next step was to glue a piece of flannel on each buckram piece.  The flannel goes on the side that the fabric (either the lining or the fashion fabric) will be on.

SAM_2004It is impossible to tell but this is buckram and flannel glued together.  I used hot glue…and no, that is not authentic.

The pieces that were going inside of the hat were my next goal.  I hot glued the lining down to the buckram, with the flannel sandwiched in-between.  Again, not pretty.  It doesn’t really need to be.

SAM_2005Once that was done I switched my attention to the outside of the hat.  I dismantled my hat frame-bye bye electrical tape.  I hot glued the frame pieces to the corresponding buckram pieces and then wrapped and glued the fashion fabric down.SAM_2006

To hide all the down and dirty seams I was creating, I glued in some cord piping.SAM_2007

Further damage was done to the hands-ie first degree burns from the hot glue.

The side pieces were a bit trickier to manage.  I had to glue them to the bottom of the frame.SAM_2008

You can see one of the support bars there in the middle.

I ran cording along the bottom edge and then stuck a tab on for sliding a hat pin in.  That turned out to be a waste of time.  It was totally in the wrong spot.  But, the pin does slide pretty easily into the cording….

SAM_2009

Next step was attaching the top to the sides and then gluing in the lining.SAM_2010

I missed the obvious fact that the inside of the hat is smaller than the outside (duh) and that is why I should have cut the seam edges smaller.  As it was, I had to do some folding, wrinkling and jamming to get it in.  I couldn’t be bothered to redo that properly.  I was too anxious to get to the fun bit…DECORATING!

So I glued lace, ribbon and cording using this as the inspiration.

1865 hat

1865 hat

Fabulously gaudy isn’t it!

Unfortunately, the mess with the too big innards made a nasty gap in the front of the hat that I couldn’t hide.SAM_2011

I wasn’t too pleased with the seam in the lace either.  What to do?  What to do?  Ah ha!  I had three tassels left over.  (I had used four of them to cover the cut ends of the cording that was hanging at the side of the hat).  I also have a small stash of buttons.

SAM_2012

 

The hat has taken on a decidedly Scottish flare, has it not?  Perfect with a plaid dress.  Inspired!  Sometimes my screw ups are very serendipitous.

SAM_2015There are some of the cord and tassel details I mentioned before laying on my shoulder.  The tassels came on a strip that I bought from the curtain section of my fabric store.  I cut the strip apart and applied glue to the strip and wrapped that around the cut ends of the cording.  Those puppies wont be unraveling any time soon!

And that is my down and dirty tutorial on how to make a hat in just about any shape you want!

 

 

 

 

 

Is it daring or madness?

I have two deadlines.  One is a costume event in October and I need a bodice that is not started yet.  But, before that, I have a self-imposed deadline.  I have made it my goal to have an entry for every Historical Sew Fortnightly event and the next one is the Wood Metal Bone challenge which is due before my costume event.  So part of the madness is starting a project that doesn’t NEED to be done and risking being half-naked for my next costume outing!

The other part of the madness is trying to make something that I have mentally viewed as very difficult and I am trying to do it without benefit of a pattern or instructions!  I am trying to make a corset and I am hoping to use stuff I remember reading on other blogs (at least I think I remember reading it) and basic intuition.  I dismantled a corset that was falling apart and was a hair to big. I hoped to use the fabric pieces as pattern pieces but it was impossible to take apart.  All I could do was cut the hardware out.

SAM_1432

 

I do have my corset that I am currently using (but it is about 1″ to small).

SAM_1431

 

I traced each piece and added 1/16 of an inch (for enlarging) plus a 1/2 ” seam allowance to each side.  I did not add a seam allowance to the top and bottom because I think that was simply covered by the self bias tape and not lost in a seam.  It was a bit tricky tracing the pieces as the boning made it hard to lay the pieces flat.  But not impossible.

SAM_1433

 

I did a trial run to see if it looked right.  It did and that will be the lining.  I’m considering my existing corset as the mock-up.  This lining matched up to the corset I have, with exception of being about an inch bigger-which I wanted.

SAM_1434

 

I flat lined all the pretty baby blue fashion fabric with some dark blue broad cloth.

SAM_1435

 

And then I sewed the fashion fabric together.

SAM_1436

 

I’m not happy with the lack of pattern matching but such is life when you fly by the seat of your pants!

Speaking of flying by the seat of your pants…. I wasn’t sure if you clipped seams to cut down on bulk or if you didn’t clip to help maintain the integrity of seams that have to withstand a lot of force.  I went for leaving the seams intact.  I also thought that sewing on the bias tape at this point will save me some work later as I think I’d have to hand sew both sides if I put it on further along in the construction.

SAM_1439

 

I’ll let you know tomorrow if these last two guesses were right or not.  I do confess to having some anxiety about the strength of my seams, fabric and thread.  I have visions of walking along and then in an explosion of fabric, boning and fat I end up standing in a pile of threads and torn fabric!  Definately, going with the trial and error method!

My new toy leads to a new toy.

My sewing machine has been around for decades.  I think it is from the 1950s or 60s.  It still works wonderfully.  BUT…..all it does is go forwards and backwards.  And the reason it has been around this long is it is made of solid steel.  The steel means that it is only portable because I have the men in my life move it for me.

Recently I changed all that.  I took all my birthday and Christmas money and bought this….SAM_0252Bells and whistles galore!  It does more than forwards and backwards!  Way more! And doesn’t weigh a thousand pounds! I wanted to try it out on a small project to see what it does.  I thought a muff that goes with my 1895 dinner ensemble would do the trick.  I have a cape for it so why not a muff as well.

I cut a rectangle out of some white broad cloth and out of the left over fashion fabric.  I used the overlock stitch on the edges.  This particular project didn’t really need it but I wanted to see how it worked because I have had some projects that I would have benefited from it.SAM_0258 I sewed the white cloth into the base of the muff using these instructions. SAM_0259I whipped stitched the edge by hand and got this.SAM_0261It was a bit shorter and fatter than I thought.  How is it one can follow instructions and end up with something different from the other person?  I think I may have over  stuffed mine.  It is still usable.

Then I worked on the cover fabric.  My purse and my cape have a leaf pattern in it so I decided to use the leaf stitch on my machine.  I’m thinking machine embroidery is not exactly historically authentic but we wont dither over details.

SAM_0262The next step was to put the cover together following these instructions.

I added an antique I had in my stash.SAM_0264Ta da!  I now have a new muff and I have a new love for my new machine!  Button holes are the next exciting option I now have….

As an added side note, I now have a submission for the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge 4: Embellish.

Finished my 1870s shawl

It is done!

I’m happy with how it came out.

I tried the smaller lace at the top edge, but of course the pattern didn’t come with the instructions for that so I had to make it up.  Here are my instructions:

I wanted a scalloped edge at the begining of the lace so that when I sewed it onto the flat edge of the wide lace, it would look like it belonged.  The top right corner of the first photo shows best what I mean.

Cast on 3 stitches

Row 1: Knit 3 (3)

Row 2: S1, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p1 (4)

Row 3: S1, YO, K3 (5)

Row 4: S1, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p3 (6)

Row 5: S1, YO, K5 (7)

Row 6: S1, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p5 (8)

Row 7: S1, YO, K7 (9)

Row 8: S1, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p7 (10)

Row 9: S1, YO, K9 (11)

Row 10: S1, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p9 (12)

Row 11: * S1, 2tog, (2tog, yo)x3, 2tog, K1 (10)

Row 12:S1, P3, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p5 (11)

Row 13: S1, YO, K2, (2tog, yo)x2, 2tog, K2 (11)

Row 14: S1, P2, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p7 (12)

Row 15: S1, YO, K4, 2tog, yo, 2tog, K3 (12)

Row 16: S1, P3, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p7 (13)

Row 17:S1, YO, K6, 2tog, K4 (13)

Row 18: P13 (13)

Row 19: S1, K5, 2tog, yo, 2tog, K3 (12)

Row 20: S1, P3, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p7 (13)

Row 21: S1, 2tog, K2 (2tog, yo)x2, 2tog, K2 (11)

Row 22: S1, P4, knit 1 purl 1 in the next stitch, p5 (12)*

Repeat from * to * until the lace is almost long enough and end after completing row 11.

Row 23: S1, 2tog, P9 (11)

Row 24: S1, K7, 2tog, K1 (10)

Row 25: S1, 2tog, P7 (9)

Row 26: S1, K5, 2tog, K1 (8)

Row 27: S1, 2tog, P5 (7)

Row 28: S1, K3, 2tog, K1 (6)

Row 29: S1, 2tog, P3 (5)

Row 30: S1, K1, 2tog, K1 (4)

Row 31: S1, 2tog, P1 (3)

Cast off and sew to top edge of shawl.

Now, I wanted to take time today to figure out how I did the angled turn on the bottom corner and write it out for you.  This would involve a close study of the stitches.  I’m afraid I can’t do a close study right now….

She is just to comfy for me to disturb!

The poor sweetie has a bad habit of chewing the fur off of her legs so the groomer had to shave her near naked to give her a balanced look.  Winter has set in and she is feeling the cold, poor dear!  On the up-side, this groomer is the first person to suggest a reason WHY she might be doing this…dry skin.  She is getting a teaspoon of salmon oil in her food everyday now.  Hopefully, by the time her fur grows back in, her skin will be normal and she wont be chewing any more.  If not, mommy may have to knit her a shawl of her own….

Costuming progress: 1870s shawl

I have a pattern for a shawl that appeared in Beeton’s Book of Needlework (1870).  To see it in its original form  you need to scroll down to 323.–Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool.

The instructions do not say how heavy a wool or thick a needle to use.  (This becomes a theme in this pattern…missing instructions.)  So I assumed they used a real wool at an average thickness and the most common needle size of our time.

I used a white wool of medium bulk (4) and size 5 1/2 metric (8 American) needles.  Then I had to try to figure out what the instructions meant. To get this….

The original instructions say: This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern (commencing at the corner).  So far so good.

Then it says: 1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.  What the heck is make 1?  And so I began my quest to make sense of these instruction and rewrite them so they made sense to me.  Hope they make sense to you too.

Cast on 6 stitches.  (Note the original instructions don’t tell you that…I had to figure it out!)

Row 1 *slip the next stitch onto the next needle, yarn over, knit 2 together by inserting the needle into the back of the stitch*.  Repeat from * to * till the end of the row.

Row 2 Knit 1, purl to the end of the row.

Repeat rows 1 and 2, adding a stitch at the beginning and end of each row 1 until the shawl is at 300 stitches.  And cast off.

Now here is the tricky part…you want to create a pattern that looks like small cables weaving back and forth vertically.  Like this….

Because each row 1 started with adding a stitch at the beginning (or because I screwed up somewhere in the previous rows) I found that for some reason, I couldn’t always start off with the same stitch each time or it would mess up the pattern.  So at the beginning of each row 1 I would add the stitch for the increase and then I would look for the hole in the previous row.  The hole is where the knit 2 goes (to close the hole).  I would count forwards along the needle (knit 2, slip stitch, knit 2 slip stitch) to the beginning of the needle so that I could figure out what stitch I needed to start with.  Also, when I did the purl row I made sure that every third purl was on the yarn over stitch.  (I suspect that I dropped a few of those yarn overs and that created mistakes that messed up my row 1 pattern.)  Let me know if this works out for you.

I finished the main body of the shawl this weekend, and if you don’t look to closely it looks pretty good.  If you do look closely, there are some obvious mistakes.  If you click on the photo above, I’m sure you will see them fairly quickly.

Once the body was done, I started on the lace portion.  I almost gave up.  If I knit exactly what I read, I ended up with something that DID NOT LOOK LIKE LACE!  It looked like crap.  Many times the instructions for the row were done and I still had stitches left on my needle that hadn’t been worked.  I tried at least 10 times and ended up in frustration.  I packed her in and went to bed in a snit.

The next morning I looked at it and decided to approach it like one of those dumb math questions I used to get in school.  “If you are on a train and it is travelling 200 miles an hour up hill how much food do you need for a 4 day journey….”  You know the ones.  Every last one of them made no sense and had you asking “Why the H-E-double hockey sticks do I need to know this?”

I basically looked at each odd-numbered row and said “I have X number of stitches on my needle.  In order to work out the pattern written in the next odd-numbered row I need to add/subtract X number of stitches and I will do that here.”  You shall reap the benefit of my migraine and I shall give you the instructions in modern terms…minus all the typos, missing instructions and confusing wordings.  At the end of each row I will put in brackets how many stitches you should have on your needle when you are done so you can check to make sure you are not messing up.

Cast on 22 stitches.

Row 1: Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 6 (21)

Row 2: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch (you do that by not pulling the stitch off of the first needle after you do the knit stitch. You move the wool forward into the purl position, make the purl and then slide the stitch off.) Purl 13. (22)

Row 3: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 8, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* once more, knit 2 together knit 5 (20)

Row 4: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 13 (21)

Row 5: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 2  more times, knit 2 together knit 4 (19)

Row 6: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 9 (20)

Row 7: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 3  more times, knit 2 together knit 3 (18)

Row 8: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 13 (19)

Row 9: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 4  more times, knit 2 together knit 2 (17)

Row 10: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 5 (18)

Row 11: Slip 1, knit 2 together,  *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 5  more times, knit 2 together knit 1 (16)

Row 12: Slip 1, purl 1, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 13 (17)

Row 13: Slip 1, yarn over, knit 2, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 4 more times, knit 2 together knit 2 (17)

Row 14: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 5 (18)

Row 15: Slip 1, yarn over, knit 4, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 3 more times, knit 2 together knit 3 (18)

Row 16: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 13 (19)

Row 17: Slip 1, yarn over, knit 6, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 2 more times, knit 2 together knit 4 (19)

Row 18: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 9 (20)

Row 19: Slip 1, yarn over, knit 8, *knit 2 together, yarn over*, repeat *to* 1 more time, knit 2 together knit 5 (21)

Row 20: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 13 (21)

Row 21: Slip 1, yarn over, knit 10, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 6 (21)

Row 22: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1 AND purl 1 in the next stitch, purl 13 (22)

Row 23: Slip 1, yarn over, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 7 (22)

Row 24: purl 22 (22)

Repeat the 24 rows until the lace is long enough to sew around the shawl.  If you try this, let me know how it worked out for you and let me know if I need to change something.  God knows I don’t someone else frustrated because my instructions don’t make sense!I think my piece looks like the drawing on the original.

The original instructions say you can make the bit that goes near the neck narrower if you like.  Of course they don’t tell you how to do that.  If I decide to do that and figure out how I will update this post.

 

Got my groove back!

After a couple of months of zero motivation, I finally got back into the groove again.  And it took a deadline to do it.  Grant it, the dead line is two months away and I certainly did not need to get started on it NOW, but I am moving ahead!

It was tough getting started though.  I had an obstical to over come.

Finally my dog behaves like everyone elses cat!

Isn’t she looking darling?  Poor thing was just back from the groomers only to find I had piled all my crap in her spot.  How is a girl supposed to chill out after that trauma!  She is probably wondering if I still love her.  First the groomers and now this!

I carefully yanked the white material out from under her and got rolling.  I had the TV on and it was showing back to back Big Bang Theory while I sewed.  It is completely setting the tone when you sew a Comic Con costume while watching BBT.  Like mood music….

I used….

…McCall’s 2339 pattern for religious themed costumes.

And got this made in no time at all.

The next step will be covering the machine sewed hems with trim. That will involve some hand sewing and another marathon session of BBT.

The boy is pleased.  In his costume plans, he will shave his head bald and wear his creepy white contact lenses.  I’m not so pleased with the bald head thing.  But, since when does mothers approval rank very high in a young mans considerations…..

 

So where was this idea two weeks ago?

I found a thingy  on line called the Perfect Pleater which you can buy to help make…ahhh…perfect pleats.  Hmmmm.  Two weeks ago I was madly pleating the trim for my Half Grand Surprise gown’s skirt.  I was making myself nuts trying to keep them straight and even.  Eventually, gave up and winged it with the assumption that if it were on the ground no one would notice they weren’t perfectly even.  Hopefully, they also didn’t notice that I had forgotten to remove the basting I had done to hold the bottom of the pleats while ironing.  Half my pleats were held rigidly in place and not moving as I walked like they were supposed to.

Anyway, this Perfect Pleater is a wonderful idea.  Except I’m too cheap to cough up the money to buy one of these things (and pay for shipping).  So back on-line I went, looking for a cheaper version.  I found two sites that were inspiring.

The first site showed how to make one with poster board and a stapler.  Click here to see for yourself.  I was all set to get myself some poster board and a box of staples and then I found this video.  It was basically the same thing only bigger, using wallpaper and instead of stapling each fold (egads, that would have taken for ever) she used tacky spray.  I decided combine the two ideas and use poster board as that seemed cheaper and to use the tacky spray instead of the staples.  I have ideas about how to adapt the idea for box pleats.

So off I went to the big chain crafting store (chanting “you can’t buy any more wool or beads, you can’t buy anymore wool or beads”.)

 

I found two pieces of poster board and a bottle of tacky spray for 1/5th the cost I found for the ready-made pleater.  I’m fairly certain I will not need 11 oz of the glue to complete this project so really this project will be more like 1/20th of the cost of the ready-made one.

She wont lay on my fabric while I’m sewing but she will sniff the glue…hmmmm.

I’ll have to make sure I keep the other 10 3/4 ozs out of Gingy’s reach.

In case you were wondering about that one glass bottle in the first photo, I found a package of 8 bottles at the store.  My son was asking if I knew where he could get some as he wanted to make props for the Dungeons and Dragons game he plays with his chums.  (The nut doesn’t fall far from the nerd tree apparently.  It is nice to see I’ve rubbed off on at least one of my boys.) I gave him 7 of the bottles and kept one for myself.  I wanted to make a medicine bottle for my costumes.  I don’t think I will make a laudanum bottle as Shirley has one and I don’t want to copy her but I have found a label for “female problems” medicine.  Tee Hee.

I’ll keep you posted on my Cheap Pleater Project.

New goodies arrived this week.

My patterns for my travel costume I am planning on for later this summer arrived.

A bustle, skirt and bodice from Truly Victorian

I was a bit surprised by the bodice as I thought I had ordered the one with a longer tail but now I remember thinking to get this one instead as it would require less material and look better in a plaid which is what I think I want to make this out of.

I also took out a couple of books from my library.I have skimmed Authentic Victorian Dressmaking before.  I took it out because it has a nice description of pattern matching that I wanted review before I tackle my possible plaid.

The other is Couture Sewing which came highly recommended by The American Duchess.  She says it is loaded with tips that would make costume making more interesting.  I hope she is right.  But, really when has she been wrong about costuming?

Somebody has to much time on her hands.

I said that to my husband and he agreed…whole heartedly.  I spent my Saturday shopping and puttering.

I bought the things I needed to make my detective costume that I need at work next week. You can't see the mustache but it is awesome!

I’m getting geared up to take a project off of the back burners and I wanted a hat that was a certain shape.  I found a cheap plastic version that I am going to use as a pattern.

I also bought the buckram.

I found a Barbie doll at a thrift shop and I am going to use her when I attempt to take the pattern pieces from one of these books and make a Barbie dress.

I found an old Barbie clothes pattern I hope will help me figure out how much I need to size up the pattern pieces.  This project will do two things for me. 1) Allow me to practice enlarging these pattern pieces (Barbie and I are very similar in shape after all!) and 2) Allow me to figure out how these piece go together as there is limited instruction that go with these books.  I’d rather screw up on a foot of fabric than on 10 meters!

This is where the day gets weird.  I have my 1850s dress on display on my dress form.  It bugs me that there is no head on Trudy to properly display the hat.  So I made one.  I found a styrofoam head to put on Trudy’s empty neck.  There is a hole in the head (the styrofoam one…not mine) so I just needed a stick  and the two shall become one.   In true Canadian ghetto fashion I used a hockey stick (there is only about 500 in the garage.)

Ooooh How Canadian of me!

Want to see how I got the stick there?  Not for the faint of heart….

Ohh the humiliation of it all.

It ended up not working and  I was a bit concerned about damaging her gears and springs anyway.  So I hacked off some of the head’s neck…it was too long and made Trudy look like a giraffe.  Then I drilled holes…right about where Frankenstein had his posts inserted.  Through those holes I ran some ribbon.

And tied the head on.

Then I added some hair.

Not historically accurate. But, it does cover the head, it was cheap and I can use it for my Igor costume at work.

Then I put on the hat.

That's not too creepy is it....standing over my bed....looking at me...